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Sample Itinerary

Arrival Prague. Of course you'll want to spend at least some time in the Golden City. Be sure to take advantage of its seasonal offerings: open-air opera in the Liechtenstein Palace courtyard, romantic outdoor dining, renting a pleasure boat on the Vltava or taking a sunset cruise, picnicking in Petrin park, and enjoying cool mugs of your favorite Czech beer in the garden of your favorite hospoda (pub) or bar when the weather gets hot.

You have just rented a spiffy Skoda car and are heading west to the spa town of Karlovy Vary. After strolling the promenade and sampling the spa wafers and Becherovka, a spicy local herbal liqueur, you might want to splurge on dinner at the very grand Grandhotel Pupp, or visit the Moser crystal factory and spend some of your crowns on their stylish glassware.

Leaving the spa life behind and heading south, stop off for a peek at the castle of Becov nad Teplou and Tepla's 12th-century monastery, then head southeast for Plzen. The Pilsner Urquell brewery museum is a must (try the Na Spilce restaurant!); other sights in the city include the newly renovated synagogue and an extensive network of medieval-period underground corridors and passages. After Plzen, continue west to Domazlice, a pretty border town with interesting folklore and famed for excellent pastries, and Klatovy, an attractive little town at the foot of the Sumava mountain range, and Susice, which has a wonderful museum of locally made glass and matches.

Enjoy a leisurely drive through the ruggedly beautiful Sumava landscape; take to country roads, and when you see a village you like, make a stop.

Your destination today isn't far--Cesky Krumlov, near the southernmost tip of the country. Besides a castle perched atop a rocky cliff, overlooking a fairy-tale townscape of red roofs and painted facades, this town has plenty to do: The castle alone has two sightseeing routes; the Egon Schiele Center offers intriguing art exhibits along with a permanent Schiele installation; and there are scores of little shops, cafes, and pubs, all cozy and inviting. Music festivals are held at the castle throughout the summer.

A day for Cesky Krumlov and its surroundings--or rent a bike and pedal your way to nearby Ceske Budejovice, the county capital and home of the original Budweiser brewery (their beer is far superior to the American Bud...).

Set your course for Ceske Budejovice, then for Trebon. This is the heart of carp country (lots of ponds around here), but pretty Trebon is also known as a spa town. Head east to Jindrichuv Hradec, built around a wonderfully restored castle.

Southeast of here, the sleepy village of Slavonice boasts the most exquisite lacelike sgraffitoed facades you have ever seen; needless to say, Slavonice is well worth the detour. Once here, be sure to visit the pension Besidka with its wacky bar and souvenir shop run by subversive artists from Prague. Spend the night in Telc, another Renaissance beauty, with a long square of pastel-colored gabled houses.

From Telc, head through Trebic and Namest nad Oslavou (both worth a brief stop) to Brno, the capital of Moravia. Along with the usual palaces and churches, the main attraction here is the once-upon-a-time dungeon Spilberk castle, with its maze of casemates, and the Capuchin church, complete with 17th-century mummies of real monks (your kids will love it).

A few ideas for day trips from Brno: History buffs can visit the Slavkov (Austerlitz) castle, where Napoleon stayed, as well as the huge Art Nouveau monument commemorating his victory there in 1805. If you are more the outdoors type, head instead for the Moravian Karst, just north of Brno, where you will find caves, abysses, an underground river, and stalactites galore.

Today, drive southeast towards Valtice; you are now in the country of sun-dappled vineyards, cozy wine cellars, and fun-loving Moravians. Once in Valtice, visit the vinotheque, located in the splendid baroque castle. Get a good bottle and go picnicking in the castle park; then move on to Pavlov, a typical wine-growing village below the Palava Hills, and check out those Pavlovian wine cellars. Spend the night in Mikulov, a charming town presided over by a castle.

Your destination is Central Moravia, namely Kromeriz and Olomouc. Both have beautiful architecture: Renaissance in Kromeriz; Baroque in Olomouc. In Kromeriz, visit the Archbishop's Palace with its famous collection of paintings and breathtaking gardens. In Olomouc, just let your eyes lead you to whatever looks interesting--you can't go wrong--but don't miss the socialist-realist design of the City Hall's astronomical clock; there aren't many around.

It's time to wave goodbye to sweet Moravia and head back to Prague. Be sure to stop off in the historic towns of Litomysl and Kutna Hora along the way. Even with lunch and sightseeing, you can easily make it to Prague by evening.

Prague. You'll come up with something to do. Pick a nice place for your farewell dinner, such as the Municipal House's splendid Francouzska restaurace ("French restaurant"; in terms of cuisine, it's more Mitteleuropa than France, but wonderful.)