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The International Rose Test Garden in Washington Park is evidence of why Portland is called the "City of Roses." Yet it's also the "City of Parks." It's the home of the largest municipal park _ 5,000-acre Forest Park _ as well as the smallest _ 24-inch Mill Ends Park (one visitor at a time, please). There's even a park on top of Mt. Tabor, a dormant volcano, where summer concerts are held.

Built around two mighty rivers, Portland is tailor-made for fishing and other water sports. Hiking, biking and horseback riding trails wander through the city parks. Just an hour away, there's world-class skiing at Mt. Hood, windsurfing at Hood River, and whitewater thrills near Estacada.

Portland has everything from luxury hotels to delightful bed and breakfasts. You can tee it up at award-winning golf courses like Pumpkin Ridge and the Oregon Golf Club, as well as many others which blend right in with the natural woodlands and wetlands.

In addition to roses, Portland will tempt you with many delightful aromas in its countless restaurants, coffeehouses and microbreweries. Wines from Washington and Yamhill counties, just outside of downtown, appeal to visitors and international judges alike. Bountiful farmers' markets and fruit stands offer a cornucopia of growing things.

With the holidays come the Parade of Christmas Ships along the waterfront and festive displays of lights at The Grotto and the Metro Washington Park Zoo. Through spring, the Portland Trail Blazers shoot it out in the NBA and the Portland Power energize the new women's ABL.

"Fog sneaks in as if on cat's feet. Clouds often hover like heavy gray blankets, or like fleecy sheep following a bellwether. The great Pacific seldom lives up to its peaceful moniker in these latitudes as gales whip up a frenzy of confused water. Yet ebb tides uncover glistening sands and crustacean-coated rocks, and sunsets paint the sky a myriad of colors. Such is the Oregon Coast, an outstanding example of God's rugged artistry."

The Pacific Ocean batters, bothers and buffets the Oregon coastline with waves born 6,000 miles away. The results seem anything but pacified: Haystack Rock in Cannon Beach, Devil's Punch Bowl and the Yaquina Head tide pools near Newport, the Oregon Dunes National Recreation Area near Florence, and the seastacks at Bandon Beach.

When you can't be walking or horseback riding along Oregon's beaches you should be doing it in the coastal mountains above them. Most campgrounds are open year round. Angling options range from deep-sea excursions to salmon runs on the rivers. Prevailing winds attract sailors and windsurfers. Wildlife watchers may spot whales, sea lions, otters, elk, bald eagles and much more.

Seaside golf resorts, beachfront properties, Victorian bed and breakfasts, riverside hideaways; they're all here. Many fill up in the summer, as well as holidays and winter weekends. Contact the Central Oregon Coast Association or local chambers and visitor bureaus for complete listings.

The Coast is synonymous with fresh seafood and shellfish. You can sample festivals in Gold Beach (January), Newport (February), Astoria (April), Bandon (May) and Florence (September). But not everything is fishy. Tillamook is famous for its huge cheese factory. Bandon has a big fall cranberry harvest. In spring, the lilies, azaleas and rhododendrons come busting out all over, especially in Florence, where they celebrate the Rhododendron Festival (May).

Set a course for the Columbia River Maritime Museum in Astoria. Relive Lewis & Clark's journey to the Pacific Ocean at Seaside and Fort Clatsop near Astoria. Catch a play at the Coaster Theater in Cannon Beach.

Astoria, Coos Bay/Charleston and Bandon sparkle with holiday light festivals. Front-row seats are always available for approaching winter storms. In the calm before and after, whip out your binoculars and watch for migrating gray whales.

"I came to Hood River for the incredible windsurfing and scenery, and wound up designing and selling activewear for windsurfers. Then I got seriously into horseback riding on my ranch and mountain biking in the forest, and started making apparel for those sports, too. Basically this area has allowed me to earn a good living around things I love to do, I can't help but wonder what's next. Luge wear?"

The view of the Columbia Gorge at Crown Point is one of many incredible sights along the Historic Columbia River Highway. The winding road passes 77 (count em) waterfalls. Many, including multi-tiered Multnomah Falls, are just a short misty walk from the highway. Snow-covered Mt. Hood can use up a roll of film in a hurry. While in the Dalles, visit The Columbia Gorge Discovery Center, opening May 1997.

The area around Oregon's highest mountain offers superb hiking, biking, camping and fishing. In June, mountain climbers attempt to "peak" Mt. Hood's 11,235-foot summit. Down in the Columbia Gorge near Hood River, windsurfers ride the world's finest blend of wind and water.

Mt. Hood's Timberline Lodge is the grandest of all Oregon accommodations. Destination resorts, river-view lodges and historic bed and breakfast inns are sprinkled throughout the region.

In the summer, orchards near Hood River and The Dalles fill local fruit stands with cherries, apricots, nectarines, berries and much more. The fall harvest includes a huge variety of pears and apples. Mountain huckleberries also ripen in September.

As the final way station on the Oregon Trail, The Dalles is a living history museum. From here, you can trace the route of the Barlow Road around Mt. Hood. Vista House at Crown Point tells the equally intriguing story of the Historic Columbia River Highway.

Ski Bowl, Timberline and Mt. Hood Meadows give downhillers three great options within an hour of Portland. Cross-country skiers and snowmobilers have literally hundreds of trail options in the Mt. Hood National Forest. Sno-Park passes are required at all ski areas. Freezing temperatures turn the Gorge waterfalls into glistening ice sculptures. Bring your camera and watch your step.