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A Peninsula-(pé-nin'sé-lé, -syé-) n. a piece of land almost surrounded by water, and connected with the mainland by an isthmus..

Created by relentless geological processes, the peninsula of Baja California, Spanish for Lower California, detached itself from the mother country of Mexico to form an extensional land mass arching into the Pacific Ocean. Attached to the southwest corner of the United States and the northwest extremity of Mexico, this area at one time was a permanent fixture of Mexico but over millions of years has slowly made its way westward extending further into the Pacific. During its journey, majestic mountain ranges, a warm gulf, and miles of inviting beaches were created. Today there is a variety of cities, activities and cultures encompassing this area and beckoning people the world over to visit and participate in its beauty.

The entire Baja California region experiences a mild, Mediterranean type of climate conducive to the growing of grapes and date palms which were introduced by the Jesuit priests in the 17th century. Following the Jesuits, the area was inhabited by the Franciscan monks in the 18th century and the Dominican clergy in the 19th century. These missions can be found running the length of Baja extending all the way up into northern California. The local population of Baja have a naturally friendly disposition with a historical background and geographic location offering cultural diversity.

Baja California... what does it mean? Is it part of California or Mexico? Confused? Baja California, Spanish for Lower California, was at one time a permanent fixture of Mexico. Over a millennium this land slowly detached itself from its mother country to form a 1,000-mile-long extensional land mass arching into the Pacific Ocean. It is now attached to the southwest corner of the United States and the northwest extremity of Mexico.

The Pacific coast of Baja averages 60-75 degrees Fahrenheit (16-24 degrees Celsius). Summer temperatures can be 85 degrees F (30 degrees C), winter nights can be as chilly as 48 degrees F (9 degrees C). Inland summer temperatures can be 110 degrees F (43 degrees C). The Baja Cape from La Paz to Cabo is warm year round with summers as hot as inland and winters a moderate 70-80 degrees F (21-27 degrees C).

Baja's Bizarre Boojum

The Baja peninsula means many things to many people. For some it’s a weekend trip to Ensenada or San Felipe. Others jet off to Cabo San Lucas or Loreto. But for the few who elect to travel the length of Transpeninsular Highway 1, the Baja Peninsula is looked upon as a one thousand mile journey into a land that time forgot. An adventure into the past. But oddly enough, this journey into the past presents almost as many mysteries as would a journey into the future. One of those mysteries presents itself on the rocky hillsides just south of El Rosario. Baja’s bizarre Boojum.

The Boojum will almost always conform to this description, but there are occasions when it’s genetic makeup decides differently. On such occasions a young Boojum will begin to divide, forming multiple branches near the upper most portion of the plant. This division can manifest itself in a simple split, or as many as ten divisions. But with a life span of 350 years, and a growth rate of 3 centimeters per year, the Boojums final shape will be a secret that spans generations.

The name “Boojum” was first used by Lewis Carroll, author of Alice in Wonderland. In another of his mythical tales, “Hunting of the Snark” Carroll describes a legendary creature that resides on far-off, uninhabited desert shores. He named this creature a Boojum. Next, in 1922, Mr. Godfrey Sykes of the Desert Botanical Laboratory in Tucson Arizona leads an expedition to Puerto Libertad, Mexico, in search of a strange plant that had been described to him by his son. Focusing his telescope on a nearby hillside where his son had seen the strange plant, Godfrey peered through the lens, then looked up and exclaimed, “Ho, ho, a Boojum, definitely a Boojum!” The name stuck. Natives of Baja call the plant “cirio”, which is the Spanish word for a “tapering wax candle” which can be found sitting atop the alters in many of their missions.

Traveling to Baja requires more thorough preparation than a similar trip in the U.S. In fact, vehicle preparation is vital for a trouble-free trip south of the border. Other areas of concern before you reach the border include: Mexican Auto Insurance; Fishing & Boating Permits; Pet Health Certiificates - If traveling with a gato (cat) or a perro (dog); Buying Pesos.

First, let us talk about vehicle preparation. Start by having your vehicle serviced and throughly checked before leaving home, including an oil change, tune up, all fluid levels check, etc. Other major areas of concern include:

Tires - Are they in good condition (including the spare)? Check the tread, sidewalls for cracks, and air pressure (inflate tire pressure to carry the extra weight). Brakes - They will be required to stop more weight. Shocks - Your shocks will be carrying more weight, plus road conditions will not be up to U.S. standards. Radiator & Hoses - Do a pressure check on your complete cooling system. If in doubt, replace the hoses and have the radiator serviced. Road vibration can cause an older radiator to leak. Transmission Cooler - A heavy duty auxiliary transmission cooler is a must on larger rigs, and mandatory on those towing. To travel in comfort, have your air conditioning system checked.

Why the big concern for a 2000 mile trip? Most vehicles will be loaded past their GVWR, rough roads will take their toll on tires, shocks, and springs. There are no call boxes or gas stations on every corner or off ramp. In fact, there are very few places where you can even pull off the road onto the shoulder if a problem develops. The few part houses in the larger towns and mechanics are few and far between. Starting off the trip with your vehicle in top mechanical condition will reduce your chances for mechanical problems. However, the experienced Baja traveler still carries the basic spare parts, extra gasoline, and tools to handle most minor breakdowns. While Mexican mechanics are good and very inventive in getting things fixed, they are not into on-board computers, turbochargers, or other high-tech innovations. The simpler the workings of your vehicle, the better your chances of getting it fixed. Limiting your parts supply to the basic items is usually ample to cover most situations. Remember the most common problems you will encounter are the same ones you will encounter driving anywhere. Spare Parts:

Belts and Hoses: One for each one under the hood; Filters: Gas or diesel engines, two each; Octane Booster: If you must buy low octane Nova gasoline; Fluids: Oil for engine, transmission, brakes, power steering, radiator stop leak, lube gun, WD-40; Keys: A spare set, plus a hidden key; Emergency Items: Flares, jumper cables, tow rope, shovel, syphon hose, work gloves, extra fuses, duct tape, tire guage, flashlight, roll of wire, hand cleaner, funnel and hose, filter wrenches, lug nut wrenches, hydraulic jack, and wooden boards. Tools: Socket set 3/8" and 1/2" inch drive, combination wrench set (newer vehicles have a combination of standard and metric size nuts and bolts), screwdrivers (regular and Phillips head), pliers (needle-nose, regular, and vise-grip), hammer, wire cutters, hacksaw, etc.) Gasoline: Carry extra gas in an approved container. Keep it in a secure position at all times.

The bottom line is having your vehicle in top mechanical condition before leaving home. This will give you peace of mind and confidence while driving down the Baja Peninsula.

Regardless of what your insurance agent may tell you, only Mexican Insurance Policies issued by Mexican companies are accepted as proof of financial responsibility in Mexico. In Mexico, an accident is considered a felony not a misdemeanor. No Mexican insurance policy provides "full coverage". Mexican automobile policies contain a number of restrictions and exclusions that are not usually found in U.S. policies. Read your insurance policy carefully, and always carry it with you.

Under Mexican law, in the event of an accident, both parties are held equally guilty and considered liable for the damage. Your Mexican insurance policy guarantees that you are able to pay for all damages if you are at fault. All accidents must be reported prior to leaving Mexico. A valid U.S. driver's license is recognized in Mexico. Always carry the current vehicle registration for all vehicles. List all driver's names on the Mexican insurance policy that could drive any of the vehicles while they are in Mexico. Mexican insurance is sold at the border by the day, week, or longer. Insurance rates are based on the value of the vehicle and length of stay. If you are staying longer than 10-12 days, or planning several trips during the year, buying an annual policy through a Mexican travel club will offer substantial savings.

Under the new Mexican fishing regulations, if there is fishing or diving gear aboard a boat, each person in the boat under the age of 16 needs a fishing permit, regardless of whether they plan to fish or dive. Boating permits are required for all size boats, i.e., dinghies, skiffs, canoes, etc. A copy of your boat registration must accompany your request for a boating permit. Commercially registered vessels can not obtain this permit. Both the fishing and boat permits are good for one year from the date purchased. Plan ahead and get your permits just before you leave on your trip. This way you can get several trips during the following 12 months on the same permits.

Pets, cats and dogs only, can be brought back and forth across the border with a vaccination certificate for rabies and distemper from a veterinarian. Obtain an International Health Certificate for Dogs and Cats (Form 77-043) as close to the departure date as you can, and bring it with you.

The legal tender in Mexico is the peso. While the dollar is accepted throughout Baja and Mainland Mexico, you will find dealing in pesos more convenient. Not only is it faster and easier, there's less chance of losing on the exchange when payment is made in pesos.

The pesos' value to the dollar has been in a constant state of fluctuation for the past dozen years. Exchanging pesos for dollars before crossing the border will bring you the best rate of exchange. Stop just before crossing the border, and shop several booths, "Casas de Cambios", before buying as the commission rate varies between houses. Try to find a booth that does not charge commission. A pocket calculator is very helpful when buying pesos. The official rate of exchange, as of October 2nd was N$7.52 to the dollar. Working exchange varies widely.

Next time in the Baja Breeze, we will discuss crossing the border, driving the toll road from Tiajuana to Ensenada, and buying fuel at a Pemex station. If you are planning a trip to Baja in the near future and want more information, please check out the many excellent books that are listed in the Cortez Publications Bookstore. They are a must for the Baja traveler who is planning their first trip, or tenth trip to Baja. Until next time, good fishing and tight lines!